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  • Install straight and drooping geraniums on a balcony

    Install straight and drooping geraniums on a balcony

    It is possible to flower a balcony with a multitude of flowers more or less resistant to shade, sun or drought. Know that to create a blooming and resistant balcony, the sure value remains the geranium.

    The different varieties of geraniums

    Geraniums were for a time wrongly classified as obsolete plants. In geraniums or rather pelargoniums, there is an incredible amount of decorative and solid varieties to adorn planters.
    It is no coincidence that certain species bear the popular name of “king of the balconies” . Although this is the simple red ivy geranium, one could easily call all geraniums “king of the balconies”.

    When to plant geraniums on the balcony?

    Unlike in the open or in a bed, geraniums in planters installed on a balcony are easier to shelter from the cold. In case of frost, they can be sheltered from the cold.
    They can take place on a balcony from April.

    What exposure for geranium?

    Geraniums love the sun , however, they can also be placed in partial shade. We avoid the northern exposure not that they will not develop but the flowers will be less abundant . Instead, reserve the shade for fuchsias or impatiens.

    Which planter to choose?

    If terracotta planters are more aesthetic, they have the disadvantage of increasing the weight on a railing. In addition, in the event of a fall they will be more dangerous for passers-by.
    Plastic planters are fine as long as they are strong enough not to warp. It will also be necessary that the volume of potting soil is sufficient for the geraniums to take root properly .
    Planters should be drilled with drainage at the bottom. Drainage can be done with clay balls or chippings placed on the drainage holes.

    Choose the right land

    You can make your own geranium soil with a mixture of universal soil, compost and garden soil. The recipe for geranium soil can vary depending on the nature of your garden soil. Although clay retains water, in excess it can be harmful to geraniums .
    Otherwise, you can find geranium soil everywhere, which is used pure, without adding soil or compost.

    Planting geraniums in planters

    Before planting, remove all advanced inflorescences and keep only the flower buds at the start of coloring. Remove all yellow leaves. Soak the pot for a few seconds in water then delicately remove the geranium. The white roots should go around the pot.
    The geraniums or zonal rights are placed at the back of the planter and ivy geraniums in front. No need to break up any clods or unravel the roots. This operation is even harmful for the recovery of geraniums. Pack around the geraniums then water copiously the first time.

    Install saucers under your planters

    The saucers allow you to conserve the irrigation water and avoid watering too regularly.
    Then wait a week before watering so that the roots go in search of moisture and occupy the entire space of the planter.
    If the temperatures are cool, water preferably in the morning and vice versa if it is hot, water the planters in the evening.

    What to do with geraniums in the event of a rainy spring?

    Despite rainy, stormy and very watered periods, a balcony of geraniums can very quickly become flowering again, provided that all the faded flowers or not are removed. During spring and summer, a balcony can suffer from meteorological hazards, starting with a hail storm, wind or more simply a long rainy period. The weather is gray and the temperatures are cool … in short, the weather is not there for the geraniums.

    What to do in the rainy season?

    Start by removing all the faded flowers as well as those barely blooming. The best technique is to remove them with the petiole up to the stem. If the weather forecast is still gloomy for several days or if you are away for a week, you can also remove the buttons at the start of coloring. This method makes it possible to avoid diseases and especially to strengthen the geranium plants. A removed button is immediately replaced by three new inflorescences which will emerge from the geranium.

    Remove the yellow leaves

    As long as they are located at the foot, there is nothing to worry about: it is the old leaves lacking in light that are disappearing in favor of a new generation. Only in wet periods can they rot and devalue the geranium. With the sun, the problem does not arise.

    Empty the saucers

    Geraniums are drought tolerant very well , but excess water prevents the roots from developing and can even cause them to rot. As a result, the geranium turns yellow and no longer blooms.

    Wait for good weather to give them fertilizer

    If the geraniums are not spent because of bad weather, it is useless to add fertilizer which could also cause a “liver crisis”. As soon as the weather is more favorable, add half-dose fertilizer the first time, then increase as soon as the geraniums regain their vigor.

    What if her geranium has broken?

    On a balcony, we are not immune to a gust of wind, an unfortunate gesture or a thunderstorm …
    Above all, don’t panic, a branch broken by a gust of wind can be cuttings to give birth to several geraniums which from the first year can overflow a small planter.

    1. Fill a planter 2/3 full with a cutting soil or a universal soil extended with sand and a little garden soil.
    2. Soak the planter.
    3. Prepare the cuttings by detaching them from the main branch, removing the flowers, buds and leaves from the bottom.
    4. Prick each cutting without pushing them too far in 1 to 2 cm.
    5. Cover the cuttings with a wintering veil for at least a week.
    6. Place a saucer under the planter and put it in partial shade.
    7. Water under the saucer once or twice a week depending on the temperature.
    8. Rooting begins about two weeks after transplanting.
    9. no fertilizer.

    Result of geranium cuttings

    Three weeks after planting

    The king geraniums of the balconies are in bloom which proves the success of the rooting of the cuttings. It is still too early to save the first flowers. They must be removed as well as the buds so that the young cuttings can gain strength.

    Remove weeds

    During these 3 weeks, weed seeds have also germinated in the middle of the rooted cuttings, this is the sign that the substrate is suitable for reproduction. It only remains to do a little weeding to prevent the competition from taking hold.

    Remove the yellow leaves

    In humid periods, it is important to remove the leaves, which turn yellow as they go, as they can cause rotting. The first yellow leaves are not a sign of disease, it is only a reaction to the cuttings.

    Blow the cuttings of geraniums

    This operation is called “blowing” by horticulturalists, it is in fact a pinching of the end of the cutting between the thumb and the index finger to allow the cutting to emit several stems and to be more strong thereafter.
    Make a watering sparingly as sunshine and heat. Young cuttings should not lack moisture at this stage, otherwise the first roots will be lost. Be careful, excess water is even more harmful than lack of water.

    Do not give fertilizer

    After three weeks, it is still a little early to fertilize the cuttings. At this stage, there are still fertilizer residues in the substrate for the young ivy geraniums (Pelargoniums peltatum) to use. Wait 1 additional month to start adding diluted fertilizers.

    How to fertilize geraniums?

    When to fertilize a geranium?

    A geranium gardener is a marathon runner who must cross the finish line in great shape and without incident. Before starting, the rider must be in good health. The plants chosen must first be healthy and vigorous .

    Moderate fertilization during repotting

    At the start, the athlete takes care of himself without forcing too much. He runs while saving his strength. When repotting, the geraniums are planted in a suitable substrate that is neither too rich nor too poor.

    Balanced watering

    The first waterings are to be given sparingly, we do not water a plant that is bathed in water with yellow leaves. It is drowning assured.

    Little cravings at the start of summer

    After several weeks, our geraniums start crying out for famine. No need to wait for the first signs of fatigue. You must add a granulated or liquid fertilizer.
    But be careful without excess, the marathon runner does not yell at the end of 10 KM, he only takes a small snack. Geranium also prefers a fertilizer diluted by half so as not to burn its roots. Small snacks and water on a hot day is the recipe for finishing the race in great shape.

    Fertilize little but regularly

    You can add fertilizer to each watering with solutions divided by 4 for the first fertilization and then by two for the following ones.

    Prune the first flowers

    In order to facilitate new growth of buds and consolidate the plant, we will remove the faded and open flowers from the geraniums at the beginning of the season or just after their cuttings.

  • Successful cultivation of ornamental grasses

    Successful cultivation of ornamental grasses

    There is at least one grass to beautify every corner of the garden and every corner of the garden is suitable for growing grasses. Adopt these plants with multiple attractions to give life and structure to your environment.

    Technical sheet

    Their pollination is carried out by the wind. You will meet annual or perennial decorative species, not to mention bamboos which produce woody stems (hard as wood) and are intermediate with shrubs. However, all grasses regrow from their stump, at least the perennial species.

    Dimensions: variable: from a few centimeters, for grassy forms, to more than two meters for miscanthus, Provence cane, pampas grasses.

    Flowering: grasses do not, strictly speaking, form flowers, but spikelets that are not very colorful, greenish, which last for a long time, taking on pretty beige to golden colors. The first blooms appear from March-April and the last, autumnal, often last until the heart of winter.

    Hardiness: most varieties are hardy. However, splendid exotic species and varieties deserve to be cultivated as annual plants for summer settings or acclimatized in mild regions. This is the case with Pennisetum setaceum such as ‘Rubrum’ or ‘Fireworks’ with leaves variegated with purple or highlighted with pink, canes from Provence (Arundo donax), the large Erianthus ravennaeor sugar cane ( Saccharum officinarum ) including the superb purple variety.

    Invasive or not : 
    There are three categories of grasses.

    • The creeping grasses , that is to say extending through rhizomes and rapidly invade a space. Their culture should only be thought of by considering a culture surrounding them with an insurmountable barrier.
    • The  bunch grasses , that is to say, that grow in clumps. This is the case with the majority of grasses encountered in our gardens. They gradually enlarge over time, like any perennial, but without ever producing a sucker other than at the foot of the mother plant. Like many perennials, their multiplication is done by division of tufts.
    • The grasses short rhizomes . They widen a little, but do not go very far, forming less dense clumps than the bunchgrass grasses. A simple spade at their foot is enough to limit their modest invasion. It is the second largest group of ornamental grasses in number

    When to sow

    • To be practiced in spring for pure species, whether annual or perennial.
    • For varieties obtained by crossing, sowing is not recommended.

    When to plant

    • The planting grasses is done preferably in the spring, ideally from natural regrowth of plants.
    • September is also recommended, the plants then having plenty of time to take root before winter (a period not recommended for less hardy species).
    • In the South, it is preferable to install them in autumn, because the risk of rot by stagnant humidity is less.

    Maintenance and other care

    • Organic mulches will be spread at the foot of shade grasses such as luzules, hakonechloas or deschampsias or damp earth.
    • On the other hand, a mineral mulch (gravel) will be more appropriate for steppe species such as stipas , fescues, calamagrostis.

    Fertilizers and fertilization

    No need to add fertilizers for the good health of the grasses. They are generally satisfied with the reserves of the soil to thrive. Shade or damp earth species will however appreciate a contribution of organic matter when planting: potting soil, compost, dehydrated manure.

    Diseases and pests

    Grown in healthy soil and a well-ventilated atmosphere, grasses are rarely diseased. With excess humidity, rust can settle on blue oats or fescues. Drain the land to compensate for it.

    Cut

    For evergreen grasses such as Stipa tenuifolia, the Deschampsia, or blue oat, content yourself, in late winter, combing tufts of manually using a glove to remove dead leaves. The tufts of deciduous grasses will be cut back as late as possible (in winter) in order to benefit from their decorative culms for a long time in winter. Clean the clumps as soon as the stems weaken. Wait March-April to cut back the semi-hardy and acclimatized grasses.

    Harvest

    Many grasses have inflorescences which keep wonderfully in dry clumps. Do not hesitate to experiment with compositions taking advantage of the great diversity of their golden or silver inflorescences.

    Multiplication

    Strain division is widely used to propagate interesting species and varieties. It is best practiced in spring, when the plants start to grow again, failing which in September. So they are able to form new roots quickly and in abundance in hot soil. Grass species are innumerable and difficult to differentiate in nature. In the garden, we recognize them because they are monocots (recognizable by their parallel veins) and their flowers are primary and not very colorful.

    Grasses (of the Poaceae family) are ubiquitous on all continents. These plants are popular in contemporary gardens where they instill a natural, wild and lively note. They are appreciated there for their silhouette, their sometimes colored foliage, their flowering, and their fall colors.
    Thus, their graceful vegetation marks the rhythm of the seasons.
    The flexibility of their culms (stems), their foliage, and their inflorescences is magnified by the wind, then by the frost. They also lighten the massifs by finding their place, according to the species and varieties, either in the shade or in the sun, in dry as in damp earth, in the South or the North of the country.

    Grasses for light in dry ground

    • Anemanthele lessoniana . Hardiness: – 6 ° C. H 80 cm. Reddish orange color for its fine leaves and soft tufted habit.
    • Bouteloua gracilis or “mosquito grass”. H 50 cm. Compact tufts, swarm of horizontal spikelets.
    • Calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’. H 1.80 m. With an upright, narrow habit, like an exclamation point in the flower beds. Spikes erected in June, beige then golden until winter.
    • Calamagrostis brachytricha or “diamond grass”. 1.20 m in all directions. With supple habit and feathery ears, catching dew.
    • Cortaderia selloana or pampas grass . H up to 3 m. Foliage in dense sheaf and large silvery or golden beige feathers until winter. 
    • Elymus magellanicus. H 45 cm. It is azure wheat with steel-blue erect leaves and grainy blond ears.
    • Blue or green fescues in compact tufts for original mottling. H 25 to 40 cm. Thin, erect ears of golden spikelets. ‘Elijah Blue’ a bright silvery blue; Festuca gautieri, emerald green in flattened cushions or F. valesiaca var. glaucantha with fine leaves, silvery bluish gray and purplish spikes.
    • Melica ciliata or “ciliated melica”. H 60 cm. with whitish cylindrical ears to be planted against the light.
    • Pennisetum alopecuroides . Port in broad sheaf and ears in swabs. Fall splendor! H 90 cm for‘Cassian’s Choice’with orange autumnal foliage, H 45 cm for‘Little Bunny’, dwarf.
    • Oriental pennisetum ‘Karley Rose’   and ‘Tall Tails’ with a more erect silhouette and supple, pink spikes, carried over a meter.
    • Sporolobus heterolepis . H 70 cm. Fine foliage, in a compact and supple tuft. Broad, thin, blond spikes with a scent of popcorn in autumn.
    • Stipa tenuifolia or “angel hair”. H 50 cm. Thin and golden ears, feathery, attracting caresses and supple in the wind.
    • Stipa gigantea rises to 2.50 m with its ethereal allure of irresistible golden wild oats.

    Grasses for light in cool soil

    • Imperata cylindrica ‘Red Baron’ or Japanese Blood Grass. H 35 cm. In sucking tufts of erect leaves, tinged with red from the end of summer.
    • Miscanthus sinensis or eulalie offers a plethora of varieties. Robust, erect plants with broad, supple leaves and digitate, feathery, silvery or golden inflorescences. Choose‘Malepartus’, with burgundy then silver panicles, H 2 m; ‘Morning Light’, with very fine foliage, highlighted with silver, H 1.40 m; ‘Cosmopolitan’with broad leaves highlighted in white, H 2.40 m or‘Graziella’with leaves streaked with yellow; ‘Floridulus’is the giant of the genus with almost 3 m. Superb in privacy screen.
    • Panicum virgatum ‘Praire Sky’ . H 1.20 m. Combines upright, metallic blue foliage and thin pink spikes.
    • Phalaris arundinacea ‘Picta’ or Shepherdess’s Ribbon. H 60 cm. Sucker roots, cream variegated leaves and erect spikes, pink in summer.

    Grasses for dry shade

    Among plants assimilated to grasses.

    • Luzula nivea . H 60 cm. Spiky, green, evergreen foliage and flowers in spring white umbels.
    • Luzula sylvatica ‘Marginata’. H 40 cm. Large leaves in tight rosettes, persistent, green edged with cream.
    • Carex morowii ‘Evergold’. H 35 cm. Compact rosette of fine, supple, persistent leaves highlighted with golden yellow.

    Grasses for cool shade

    • Chasmanthium latifolium . H 1.20 m. American grass, deciduous emerald green foliage and supple panicles with large, flat spikelets. ‘River Mist’ is a superb novelty with cream variegated leaves.
    • Deschampsia cespitosa ‘Goldschleier’ or “canche cespiteuse”. Dense tufts of thin, green leaves, surmounted in summer-autumn by a cloud of slender and golden spikelets. H 1.20 m.
    • Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola ‘. H 35 x 45 cm. Japanese grass with broad leaves, variegated with golden yellow. Spectacular cascading harbor. Slow growth.
  • How is Gomphrena ‘Truffula Pink’ grown?

    How is Gomphrena ‘Truffula Pink’ grown?

    Foliage forming very branched and downy tufts covering all summer long with fuchsia pink flowers attracting pollinating insects, the gomphrena ‘Truffula Pink’ is a novelty not to be missed! Easy to grow, resistant to heat and drought, this easy-care plant will delight all gardeners.

    Characteristics

    Soil: drained and light
    Spacing: 30 cm between 2 plants
    Planting: in May
    Flowering: from June to October
    Exposure: sun
    Use: full ground and pot
    Height: 40 to 60 cm

    Culture

    Easy to grow, this plant from a species that grows spontaneously in the sunny meadows of South America requires only limited maintenance to abundantly flower the garden or a pot on a balcony.

    Plant the gomphrena ‘Truffula Pink’ in May in the ground. This plant appreciates a well-drained, infertile soil with a neutral to acidic pH. It appreciates full sun where it will flower spectacularly.

    1. Dig a hole equal to twice the volume of the root ball in all directions.
    2.  Install the plant in the hole by adjusting its height so that the collar is flush with the ground.
    3. Recap then water.

    regular watering is necessary time to ensure recovery, then the gomphrena will only little watering and will even tolerate a drought event. No need to add fertilizer for this greedy plant.

    Pot :

    1. Choose a container pierced at the bottom and line it with gravel to ensure good drainage;
    2. Compose a mixture of potting soil, garden soil and river sand;
    3. Plant the gomphrena ‘Truffula Pink’ in the center of the pot;
    4. Pack around the collar then water.

    In pots, water as soon as the substrate dries on 3 cm on the surface. Add a ‘special flower plant’ fertilizer once a month.

    Use

    The gomphrena ‘Truffula Pink’ is as remarkable on the edge of flower beds and paths as it is in a very wild-looking flower meadow where it attracts many butterflies and other pollinating insects . It also finds its place in mixed-border in the company of perennials and annuals or even in rockeries and on an embankment that it will cover with pink throughout the summer.

    In a large pot, it brings its soft hue to a terrace or balcony promoting biodiversity in urban areas.

    Cut flowers make beautiful, long-lasting bouquets. Once dried, they adorn the interior during the long winter months.

    Associations

    A sloping flower bed 

    To make an embankment flower in the long term, it is possible to embark on the creation of a colored bed that will amaze guests. The gomphrena ‘Truffula Pink’ will take center stage here to take advantage of its wild aspect. At the edge of the embankment, place 5 plants of ‘Rozanne’ geranium for its softness and bright color. We then install 10 plants of gomphrena ‘Truffula’ then we have 10 plants of Carex EverColor® on its left and 10 plants of Mirage sage on its right. The Carex will highlight the stunning fuchsia pink of the gomphrena. 

    A flowery path for insects 

    Pathways are generally used as transitional spaces between different parts of the garden. To flower them, you can opt for easy-care plants like those from the Facil’été® range! Some varieties attract pollinating insects which play a crucial role in biodiversity. You might as well kill two birds with one stone! For a flowery and attractive path for the bees, we install several plants of gomphrena ‘Truffula’ in staggered rows between which we interpose plants of sage ‘Mirage’ and sage ‘Mystic Spiers Blue ‘. Something to please all the insects passing through the garden! 

  • How to cultivate bamboos according to their varieties?

    How to cultivate bamboos according to their varieties?

    These exotic, half-perennial, half-shrub plants fascinate gardeners with their robustness and the beauty of their erect stubble, bearing beautiful evergreen leaves. However, planting them in the garden should not be decided lightly, as many bamboos turn out to be formidable invaders. Good knowledge and a judicious choice are therefore strongly recommended.

    Technical sheet

    Type of plant: Perennial/shrub plant
    Dimensions: from 0.30 to 20 m.
    Flowering: rare, but it contributes to decimate populations and occurs at the same time all over the world for the same variety.
    Harvest: stubble in winter.
    Exposure: sun to partial shade
    Soil: rich, supple, and cool
    Hardiness: Mostly hardy, -18 ° C

    Cultivation conditions

    Bamboos develop particularly well when three factors are combined: summer heat, rich and flexible soil, and good freshness (soil and atmosphere). If the species turn out to be more or less adaptable, the results are all the more spectacular in a mild or even hot climate and in alluvial soil. Indeed, cool soil in summer, rich in humus and of flexible texture, well-drained in winter is ideal.

    When and how to plant bamboo

    Choose plants grown in large containers, not in pots or pots. First and foremost, it is important to know whether you are planting a sucker or cespitose species. In the first case, and if you lack space, you will have to contain its ardor. The planting can take place all year round thanks to the proposed plants in containers. However, avoid the middle of winter to prefer spring, when the ground becomes hot, to install the bamboos, ideally during the period when the stumps start again. Bring a lot of organic matter well decomposed in-depth and a basic organic fertilizer.
    If your bamboo is a sucker variety, provide a physical barrier to contain its powerful rhizomes. To do this, dig a pit and line its edges with an effective anti-rhizome barrier in polypropylene (delivered in a roll) commercially installed, vertically and at a height of 70 cm. Lightly bury (3 cm) the clods by backfilling the pit. Draw a large watering bowl. Firm the earth and proceed to a copious watering. Protect young plants from drying winds.

    How to water the bamboo?

    Bring plenty of water (but not excess) until the stumps have completely recovered. In insufficiently cool soil in summer, watering/irrigations will be necessary to maintain good growth. Check that the leaves do not roll up during the heat wave, which indicates a lack of water.

    Should bamboo be fertilized?

    Bamboos are very sensitive to inputs of well decomposed manure and fertilizer. It is also important not to abuse it. Plan to add humus in September and possibly in February, then organic nitrogen fertilizer (type 10-5-5) or lawn fertilizer at the end of winter.

    How to maintain bamboo?

    Keep the soil weed-free after planting by being careful not to damage the rhizomes that run on the surface. Better to spread a mineral or organic mulch. With age, shady groves require little care.

    Diseases and pests

    They are rare. Sometimes aphids invade the foliage. An organic insecticide based on pyrethrum will be right. Mealybugs are more difficult to eradicate, as the insects are sometimes out of reach. Focus on biological control by releasing specific predators.

    When and how to prune bamboo?

    Remove the oldest stubble in winter to ventilate the whole and better appreciate the spectacle. Also collect the larger canes, aged 3 to 4 years, for decorative or utility use.
    Cut the dwarf bamboos used as ground cover at the end of winter.

    When and how to multiply bamboo?

    The multiplication is carried out by division of the stumps, carried out in autumn or in spring for the compact forms, by sections of rhizome at the end of winter for the tracing species, by stubble cuttings in May or by layering with incision for the growing forms. in a tuft.

    Species and varieties

    Bamboos are divided into two categories. Forms with trailing rhizomes are generally invasive and intended to adorn large parks and forms in compact tuft called “cespitose” more suitable for cultivation in small gardens or even in containers.

    Dwarf bamboo, ground cover

    These tracing species quickly provide good coverage as well as the retention of unstable land and slopes. You can mow them every year (not too short) at the end of winter. Grind the stubble on site for a natural and ecological mulch.

    • Pleioblastus pygmaeus and ‘Distichus’ with fine, matt green foliage, can be mowed before spring regrowth or else pruned in mottling during vegetation; height from 30 to 60 cm.
    • Sasaella masamuneana , very sucker, with green foliage, it shows a steeper port and rises up to 1m.

    Which varieties of bamboo to install in a hedge

    Low hedges

    • Indocalamus latifolius , sucker with large shiny leaves to form wide hedges; height 2 m.
    • Indocalamus tesselatus with a weeping habit with a very tropical look; height 1.20 m.
    • Fargesia murielae ‘Simba’ grows in a compact clump with fine, yellow culms and diffuse foliage; height 2 m.

    High hurdles

    • Semiarundinaria fastuosa , impressive, fast-growing plant with green culms and decorative sheaths; height 7 m.
    • Phyllostachys aurea ‘Holochrysa’, it is the golden bamboo which grows in tight tuft, presenting golden culms; height 4.50 m.

    Bamboos for use in isolation or in beds

    • Fargesia nitida ‘Nymphenburg’, a variety with a very graceful habit and young shoots tinged with blue. For partial shade; height 4 m.
    • Phyllostachys vivax aureocaulis , superb vigorous selection with golden yellow culms striped in green barcode style; height 8 m.
    • Semiarundinaria fastuosa var. viridis , vigorous and impressive species with dark green culms, united and large pearly sheaths; height 7 m.
    • Thamnocalamus crassinodus ‘Kew Beauty’. With its yellow stems of steel blue then green, this plant is remarkable for its light habit; height4 m.

    Bamboos for gardener, pan or pot

    • Chimonobambusa marmorea ‘Variegata’ or marbled bamboo is stocky, with large narrow variegated leaves, tiger stubble; height 1.50 m.
    • Indocalamus tesselatus
    • Phyllostachys nigra  or black bamboo with elegant stubble, inky black; height 6 m.
    • Phyllostachys aureosulcata , exhibits green culms, growing in a zigzag fashion; height 6 m.

    The genus Pleioblastus  offers many low varieties with elegant, variegated foliage, such as

    • P. chino ‘Elegantissimus’ with thin leaves, highlighted with cream; height 1.50 m
    • P. viridistriatus is distinguished by its stocky habit and its leaves broadly streaked with golden yellow; height 1.40 m.
    • Semiarundinaria yashadake ‘Kimmei’ with golden culms lined with green is of exemplary grace; height 3 m.

    Dwarf varieties are also grown in planters or pots.

    Bamboo potted indoors

    Some species adapt very well to our interiors, being too sensitive to the cold. This is the case with the famous stocky Bambusa ventricosa with swollen nodes or the graceful Bambusa multiplex ‘Alphonse Karr’ with yellow stubble highlighted in green.
    Full light and a humid atmosphere thanks to a humidifier placed nearby will contribute to the growth and good health of your plant.

    Edible bamboos

    If you have optimal growing conditions (summer heat, rich soil, draining, but cool in summer) you can cultivate for example Arundinartia hindsii or Phyllostachys heterocycla , ‘Henonis’. Take the spears in the manner of asparagus, during spring regrowth, burrowing to their base.

  • May in the garden: planting and maintenance

    May in the garden: planting and maintenance

    May is an important month for the gardener. With the return of sunny days and the first heat, it’s time to plant your vegetables and prepare your beds. Today, Sems le Jardinier explains to us how to properly prepare his vegetable patch and ornamental garden for the summer. Let’s go!

    May in the garden: how to prepare for summer?

    Between the last cold and the first heat, May is a month of transition in the garden. 

    The end of the Ice Saints

    The Ice Saints designate three days of May during which late frosts can occur overnight. The Ice Saints take place on May 11, 12, and 13, 2021. These drops in temperature can cause significant damage to crops. This is why it is advisable to wait until mid-May to plant cold-sensitive varieties outdoors. 

    Take care of your soil in May

    Last month, in April, Sems took care of his soil by cleaning and nourishing it. At the beginning of May, our favorite gardener finishes the soil cleaning operation by eliminating the last weeds in a natural way.

    Whether in the vegetable patch or the ornamental garden, the simplest and most respectful technique for the soil is still to remove weeds manually using a hoe, a rake, or … with a gouge asparagus! The herbicides, too aggressive, be avoided. 

    Use of the greenhouse in May 

    If the weather is still cool and a greenhouse is available, some vegetable plants can be installed there. This is a good tip for vegetables that are sensitive to the cold, like: 

    • The ‘Rocky ‘ cucumber or 
    • the ‘Sebring ‘ zucchini for example.

    However, remember to ventilate the greenhouse well: temperatures can rise quickly! In addition to lowering the temperature, aeration reduces the risk of fungal diseases.

    What to do in May in the vegetable garden?

    Planting vegetables and aromatics in May ensures abundant and delicious harvests in summer!

    Plant the vegetables for the summer

    May is the ideal month to plant fruit vegetables in the ground. You can opt for vegetables from the sun, such as: 

    • tomatoes ‘ Fleurette ‘, ‘ Orange Fizz ‘ or cherry tomatoes ‘ Dolly ‘,
    • ‘Poxigo’ or ‘ Bellania ‘ peppers ,
    • the eggplant ‘Clara ‘. 

    If you live in a cool area, installing a tunnel or a bell above the plants is a good way to protect your vegetables. This technique also makes it possible to speed up production. 

    Sems is also taking advantage of the return of sunny days to transplant his salads, such as ‘Serpico ‘ lettuce or ‘Frantic ‘ batavia . Be careful, however: in case of rain, the snails and slugs are out and can come and nibble the leaves. Depositing sawdust, ash or coffee grounds helps protect salad crops. We can also distribute saucers of beers in the vegetable garden to trap these unwanted people.  

    From mid-May, when all risk of frost has been ruled out, Sems will also plant more chilly vegetables, such as ‘Cyrano’ melon, ‘Divine’ pumpkin, or ‘Betty Blue ‘ pumpkin.

    Caring for aromatic plants 

    Aromatic plants do not all have the same resistance to cold. The more vigorous ones like the mint ‘Mojito Cocktail ‘ can be taken out from the beginning of May. This variety appreciates partial shade and requires frequent watering. 

    Other more fragile plants should be kept indoors while waiting for warmer temperatures. This is the case with the ‘Grand Vert Compacto ‘ basil: Sems will install it outdoors from mid-May.

    When to water your vegetable garden in May? 

    Once all these beautiful vegetables are planted, Sems does not forget to take care of his vegetable garden by watering abundantly

    However, the hottest hours of the day are avoided and watering is preferred in the early morning or early evening so that the plants can make the most of the water supply.

    What to do in the ornamental garden in May?

    Sems is already preparing his ornamental garden for the summer period. 

    Prepare your flower beds

    In early May, we can start to imagine colorful and original scenes for this summer. Now is the time to organize your beds and buy your plants to be ready to fill the beds when the time comes. 

    From mid-May, it’s time to plant the annuals. To ensure continuous flowering from spring to autumn, we can count colorful and very productive varieties such as:

    • the ‘Easy Wave ‘ petunia , 
    • the begonia ‘Megawatt ‘
    • or the impatiens ‘SunPatiens ‘.

    Note that these plants require regular watering and an organic amendment every two weeks to flower abundantly. 

    In May, it’s time for Sems to plant the annuals and perennials that will decorate his new embankment. After having defined the location of each variety, he goes to his usual point of sale to buy his plants from the Facil’été® range. From May 20, he will begin to set up his massif. Gerberas ‘Garvinea Sweet ‘, dipladenias ‘Bella ‘ or calibrachoa ‘Cabaret ‘ … You will soon discover this superb combination of plants! 

  • How to divide the tufts of sedum spectabile?

    How to divide the tufts of sedum spectabile?

    Stonecrop or sedum spectabile is a perennial plant that is easily propagated by stem cutting or leaf transplanting in summer. However, the quickest method to ensure flowering in the first year is undoubtedly tuft division.

    Like most succulents, stonecrop sedum is particularly suited to arid life. It grows in poor soil, drained and preferably exposed to the sun to benefit from a flowering that extends from August to October depending on the variety.
    Interesting for its decorative aspect but also for its ability to attract many insects and more particularly butterflies. It is the easy-care waterless plant for all sunny gardens, balconies, terraces, and south-facing windowsills.

    Divide the sedum for rapid flowering

    It multiplies very easily by stem or leaf cuttings as well as by seed. However, tuft division allows many plants to flower in the first year.

    When to divide the sedum?

    The stonecrop divides in autumn after flowering or very early in spring in March, April. It could also divide later, as it gives off roots most of the year except in winter.
    spring division ensures a nice flowering in the late season to attract butterflies.

    How to divide the sedum?

    If the stonecrop is in the ground in a bed, it is possible to cut part of the stump or to extract it, take a part, and put it back in place.
    Another technique is to get a sedum in a very well-developed container to then peel it. From a purchased plant, several dozen new plants can be made.

    1. Deposit the sedum.
    2. Slide a long blade between each rod start. At this stage the sedum has barely started.
    3. Remove the soil around the roots.  
    4. Prepare a planter with a granular potting soil at the bottom of the container (rest of the sieve).
    5. Add a universal potting soil or geranium (it doesn’t matter, the stonecrop is not difficult).
    6. Place the sedums in the planter in staggered rows, packing around the foot.
    7. Water.

    And after

    Sedum is a decorative succulent plant for its foliage, it can remain alone in the planter which will prevent watering errors. It is the plant that we can forget for several days without being mad at us.

    From August we can expect a nice show on its flowers with the butterflies fluttering near the sunny windows. Sedum spectabile is aptly named!

  • Butter the nasturtium

    Butter the nasturtium

    Just as floriferous as climbing or dwarf annuals, the tuberous nasturtium likes to have the roots covered with a good thickness of soil. Butcher it and don’t forget to train its twining stems.

    Material:
    hoe
    watering can
    support or stake
    ties
    secateurs
    special liquid fertilizer for flowers

    Advice:
    Nasturtiums like cool, but well-drained soils. Install a mulch of crushed pine bark or cocoa shells at their base to keep the soil water. This mulching also allows you to have always clean ground by hindering the emergence of weeds.

    Good to know:
    Remove the flowers as they wilt to make room for new buds. Also, cut off any broken or withered stems.

    Bring earth to the base of the foot

    The tuberous nasturtium exhibits little difference in vegetation from its classic root cousins, except that its tubers must be planted deep. With a hoe, bring a little earth to the base of the foot.

    Form a mound

    Form a hill 10 to 20 cm high which contributes to the full development of the plant. Be careful, however, not to uncover the roots around the tuber. If necessary bring soil from another place in the garden.

    Monitor stem growth

    Water regularly, being careful not to destroy the mound. Also, watch the growth of climbing stems and help them hang on their support, either by wrapping them around the stake or trellis or by securing them with ties.

    Water and fertilize

    Do not over-tighten your ties. Distribute all the branches evenly so that the coverage is complete. Two or three times a week, water abundantly and add special liquid flower fertilizer every week.

  • How to sow in a bucket: tips and advice

    How to sow in a bucket: tips and advice

    Successful sowing in a bucket: techniques and advice

    We sow in as many pots as there are plants needed, or even a little more for safety.

    Advantages and disadvantages of sowing in pots

    • Advantage : when sown in this way, a plant can stay in the same place until it is transplanted outside.
    • Disadvantage : it requires more space than sowing in a container.

    Choice of varieties to sow

    • What to sow? Large-seeded species, those that grow quickly, those that do not support transplanting or that are only needed in small numbers ( eggplant , basil , pepper , squash ).
    • The keys to success : sow in a bucket 3 or 4 large seeds and 5 to 7 small. Keep the most beautiful plant that came from it and remove the others.
  • Plant blue fescue

    Plant blue fescue

    Very trendy, easy to grow and ideal for dressing arid areas of the garden, the Blue Fescue is gaining more and more followers. Its very graphic blue-gray foliage forms tufts of the most beautiful effect in rockeries and borders. For a contemporary garden, plant this grass on a bed of white gravel: effect guaranteed!

    Difficulty of planting blue fescue

    Very easy.

    When to plant blue fescue?

    Spring or fall.

    Preparing to plant the blue fescue

    Fescues are not susceptible to any disease which facilitates the choice of plants. Just make sure that the roots do not get “bun” in the pot and that the foliage is a beautiful blue.
    Preparation of the soil:
    Beaker to a depth of 30 cm. Take advantage of the operation to remove the roots of weeds and to incorporate a draining amendment such as coarse river sand into the soil.

    Exposure

    Sun.

    Ground

    Poor, drained, dry.

    Distance between 2 blue fescue plants

    30 cm.

    How to plant blue fescue?

    Blue fescue is a very easy to grow perennial grass. It thrives in dry, well-drained ordinary soil. It tolerates drought and poor soils and can be planted in seaside gardens.

    • Choose a location in full sun to dig the planting hole, which should be a size slightly larger than that of the root ball.
    • For better drainage in heavy soil, dig deeper and add a bed of chippings to the bottom of the hole.
    • Install the plant and fill in the spaces with a mixture of soil and river sand.
    • Space the plants at a distance of 30 cm.

    After planting the blue fescue

    Water after planting. Continue watering, letting the soil dry out between two waterings until the first signs of re-vegetation. Then the Blue Fescue will not need any more care, except cleaning the leaves and faded flowers from time to time to keep it looking beautiful.

  • Flora and flowers threatened in France

    Flora and flowers threatened in France

    The 5,000 species that make up the plant diversity of our regions suffer from many ills. Let us learn to recognize them and make our gardens into sanctuaries.

    It is impossible not to notice it: the French flora is becoming impoverished. Even species that were once commonplace, such as corn niello, are starting to become scarce. The exploitation of natural environments, global warming , the intensification or abandonment of certain agricultural practices and uncontrolled concreting are the main causes of this decline.
    Thus, it is now 15% of our flora , or about 750 species, which are threatened or almost threatened. The situation varies from region to region. Because the disappearance of the flora is an insidious phenomenon: less habitats, there are fewer populations and therefore a reduced genetic diversity, starting an inevitable decline …

    On a walk, good reflexes

    Let’s say it again: picking a bunch of wildflowers on a nature walk is a bad idea. Not only does this deprive the plant of seeds and reduce the amount of pollen available, but it penalizes foragers, sometimes very specialized, themselves dependent on rare plants.
    The smallest actions during a hike can have negative consequences , such as flipping rocks or going off trails. Avoid trampling natural environments, stay on the paths, do not cut switchbacks in the mountains …
    Even “wild swimming” has negative effects caused by disturbance and bodily products that pollute the water. Learning to identify the flora in its natural environment and gleaning large bouquets of photos remain the surest way to enjoy the spectacle of wild nature.

    The danger of the expansion of cultivated plants

    This is a facet of human activity that is still little known: the spontaneous contamination of wild plants by cultivated varieties, sometimes hybridized, always selected. However, these horticultural forms are not very varied genetically and often more sensitive to diseases and pests.
    Locally, certain plants can be cultivated in such large numbers that the pollen, once transported from gardens to natural environments, creates a mixture of wild and cultivated plants. The marsh hibiscus, prized in the South-West, is thus threatened.
    In other regions, the risk is the same: lavender, wild apple trees, rosehips, junipers, etc., are some of the plants that can undergo this recurring process.successive hybridization and backcrossing , which scientists call introgression .

    Unusual species here but invasive elsewhere

    The false water lily ( Nymphoides peltata ) illustrates the difficulties of preserving plant biodiversity . This small aquatic plant, lovely in a pond, is classified in danger of extinction in the South-East. She disappeared from Brittany, Hauts-de-France, Normandy and Auvergne. And yet: in North America, it has become so established that it aggressively colonizes many bodies of water.
    It behaves there like the North American aquatic plants introduced in France, like the jussie ( Ludwigia), which slows down the circulation of water and plunges aquatic environments into the shadow of its covering foliage, or Nuttall’s water lily, which threatens aquatic flora. In America, the presence of the false water lily can sometimes depreciate the price of real estate on the edge of a body of water! With us, however, there is no contraindication.

    Northwest: fragile species

    In the north-western quarter of France, many plants naturally present in southern and western Europe are reaching the limit of their development area.
    Despite climate change, these species do not benefit from temperature changes because their seeds are not very mobile. If their habitat disappears, they also decline and are therefore locally vulnerable. As for the very jagged coastline, it is also home to several rare species, vestiges of a population that used to be much larger, and which are today sometimes very small: these endemic plants , which cannot be found anywhere else, are numerous in that part of the territory.

    North-West: Endangered horticultural heritage

    The horticultural diversity of northwestern France is also threatened with oblivion. There are varieties well adapted to the local soil such as the pear tree ‘Figue d’Alençon’, characterized by its stocky and rounded fruits, which appreciates light and cool soils. Other varieties of pears and, of course, apples, such as ‘Bondon’, yellow striped with red and sweet, belong to this endangered plant heritage.
    But we must not neglect other less emblematic crops, such as ‘De Trémont’ lettuce or ‘Grison de Loire’ bean.
    Rather cool summers and heavy rainfallat the start of the season suit them well. All these varieties are still kept by local horticultural companies or even nurserymen specializing in old varieties, because they are no longer distributed in the traditional commercial circuit.

    The culture of colchicum

    name Colchicum autumnale , or killer dog, saffron-mongrel, meadowsweet …Typebulb plant.Distribution and natural habitatThe crocus is found throughout Europe, but in regions where summers are hot.Threatmore or less frequent in France, this plant is considered to be absent in Brittany and remains vulnerable in Normandy, in particular because of the mechanization of pasture maintenance.Cultivate itcolchicum likes lawns mowed in July. In a massif, it is better to offer it a bright location in fresh earth. This species is easily naturalized, but its bulky foliage, which only appears in spring, must be allowed to develop and complete its cycle. The horticultural forms are more floriferous, but sometimes sterile.

    Growing Italian gladiolus

    name Gladiolus italicus .Typebulb plant.Distribution and natural habitatthis gladiolus grows in the harvests and cultivated places of the Midi, the Rhône, Puy-de-Dôme, Charente-Maritime and Vendée.Threatextinct in Brittany, it is critically endangered in other regions (Auvergne and Pays de la Loire), due to the disappearance of its habitat.Cultivate itoffer it a sunny slope, even scorching in summer, in well-drained soil. It supports limestone well, if the soil is rich and even ends up forming a nice clump.

    Growing the Glénan narcissus

    name Narcissus triandrus subsp. capax.Type bulb plant.Distribution and natural habitat this large-flowered form is endemic to the Glénan archipelago, in Finistère.Threat the picking for the bouquets, the uprooting of the bulbs and the arrangement of the old pastures in cultivated fields almost made disappear this plant.Cultivate it the typical form is not commercially available, but ‘Thalia’, a horticultural selection, requires only draining soil and an open location. It should be planted en masse for a natural effect .

    North-East: a flora under tension

    The vulnerable plants of the flora are especially dependent on wetlands. There are also those whose distribution reaches the northern limit of the region.

    Drainage of wetlands, urbanization and modernization of agriculture have had negative effects on some of the flora in these regions. Botanical conservatories are thus reporting a drop in the number of endemic species .
    The Paris region has very rare species in the plains, such as variegated horsetail ( Equisetum variegatum ) or large-flowered sabline ( Arenaria grandiflora ), both on the verge of extinction.
    Small orchid of the wet meadows, the summer spiranthus ( Spiranthes aestivali) has not been seen since 1985 in the North, but remains present everywhere else in France. The St. Michael’s daisy ( Aster amellus ) is threatened, and the common pulicaria ( Pulicaria vulgaris ) is protected. Likewise, it is only in Herbsheim, in Alsace, that we can see the doubtful selin ( Kadenia dubia ), and in Ohnenheim, the fragrant garlic ( Allium suaveolens ).
    In Lorraine, the pubescent stonecrop ( Sedum villosum ) is now absent. However, a few actions would suffice to protect these plants, such as stopping mowing the edges of the roads. Gardeners can also create a small body of water at home, because wetlands are a welcome refuge for these magnificent ornamental plants.

    Treasures in the garden in the Northeast

    The gardens of north-eastern France traditionally host a great diversity of cultivated varieties, due in particular to the influence of neighboring countries, with whom exchanges have always been fruitful.
    There are marvels there, such as the ‘De Lunéville’ melon. This 2 kg Cucurbitaceae resists cold and humidity and offers a tender flesh and not hard like some modern melons. Only downside: it requires regular pruning in order to obtain well-formed fruits.
    The region is also proud of a tradition of beans, some of which have been pulled from oblivion at the last minute such as the flageolet ‘Blanc des Flandres’, the butter bean ‘Du Cambrésis’, the coconut bean ‘De Chéhu’, etc. And we must add the carrots,

    Growing the wood anemone

    nameAnemone sylvestris.Typeperennial.Distribution and natural habitatit is present over a large north-eastern quarter, extending to central France. Elsewhere, it is found from Sweden to West Asia. It occupies limestone lawns and light woods, despite its name.Threat the landscaping of lawns made it disappear from the places where it was present.Cultivate itthis Ranunculacea slowly settles in clumps, with other low plants, in not too dry soil and in drained soil. She doesn’t like competition.

    Growing summer adonid

    nameAdonis aestivalis or drop-of-blood.Typeannual.Distribution and natural habitatthis native plant was used to harvests and limestone wastelands, from Central Asia to Western Europe.Threatwith the herbicides used in cereal crops, this plant is in critical danger in the northern half, in particular in Lorraine and Picardy.Cultivate itsow it at the end of winter, on bare ground and very sunny in summer, covering the seeds with 5 mm of potting soil. Let it reseed. Remember to remove faded flowers .

    Growing lysimachus in thyrsis

    nameLysimachia thyrsiflora .Typeperennial.Distribution and natural habitatthis plant grows naturally in humid lowland areas, over a vast geographic area stretching from North America to part of Asia.Threatits particular habitat, in low-altitude peat bogs, being itself in sharp decline , the plant is considered to be in critical danger of extinction in Picardy. It is classified as vulnerable in many French departments.Cultivate itplant it with bank plants, around a pond, where it quickly finds its place. She only needs 2 inches of open water and, once settled, she lives a very long time. It spreads by vigorous underground rhizomes.

    Growing German fern

    nameMatteuccia struthiopteris or ostrich feather fern.Typeperennial.Distribution and natural habitatconfined to Alsace, this vegetal gem inhabits marshy places on the edge. It is found throughout the Northern Hemisphere, including Japan, Canada, and Russia.Threatthe drainage of wetlands and their transformation into afforestation have reduced the natural habitat of this fern.Cultivate itinstall it in the shade or in the partial shade, at the foot of a wall, in a very humus soil. It reproduces by spontaneous sowing .

    Growing corn niello

    nameAgrostemma githago .Typeannual.Distribution and natural habitatnative to Europe and North Africa to Asia, niello has been introduced everywhere.Threatit has become so rare, because of the weedkillers used in cereal cultivation, that it is in critical danger of extinction in the Hauts-de-France. She disappeared in the Somme, Oise and Aisne.Cultivate itsow it in winter, until February, on bare ground , after tillage. The plant, if it is inconspicuous at the beginning, then develops without care.

    Emergency in the South-West

    Between ocean, mountains and Mediterranean influences, the flora of the territory shows real richness. This vegetable “melting pot” is however in danger.

    Wedged between the Mediterranean Sea, the Atlantic Ocean and two mountain ranges (the Massif Central and the Pyrenees), the South-West is home to a diverse flora that results from these different constraints. Despite the relatively unspoiled character of the Pyrenean mountains, the erosion of biodiversity is real.
    Global warming is one of the main threats there, because the high-altitude flora cannot climb forever, as in the Alps, and has no escape route. However, there are astonishing endemic plants, such as the Pyrenean dioscorea, a cousin of the yam, attached to mountain scree.
    If the flora of the territory is enriched with plants of Mediterranean origin, which migrate north, it also loses some of its plants dependent on dry and hot summers, due in particular to the exploitation of land , so far subject to low-intensity grazing. Elsewhere, the thicket following agricultural abandonment has on the contrary plunged these plants into a shadow which prevents them from flowering and therefore from reproducing. The flora of the Southwest therefore faces complicated challenges, which will require various measures to ensure that these plants have a viable future.

    Rarities in the South West

    The South-West is known for its stone fruits, some varieties of which were saved from oblivion at the last minute: the plum tree ‘Datil’, with its small sweet fruits, is one of the most beautiful examples, and this variety is more and more in the catalogs of specialized producers.
    Vegetables are not to be outdone, with the diversity of beans , some of which are very confidential, such as the ‘A taste of Échenans chestnut’, with brown grains, and the many cousins ​​of the ‘Tarbais’ bean.
    The other ambassador of the region is, of course, the onion, of which each canton had its own variety (there was thus a variety of Moissac, Saint-Turjan, etc.), like the onion ‘ From Trebons’. Thanks to the work of a few producers,

    Growing the Hairy Soldanelle

    nameSoldanella villosa or large soldanelle.Typeperennial.Distribution and natural habitatthis cousin of the primroses is confined to the Pyrenees, in their Basque part to the Cantabrian mountains, in Spain.Threatits populations are far from each other and global warming limits the possibilities of refuge.Cultivate itif this Soldanelle is not commercially available, other, easier species will find their place in a rather cool and shaded corner of the garden, sheltered from the hot weather.

    Growing golden garlic

    nameAllium moly or garlic from Spain.Typebulb plant.Distribution and natural habitatof European origin, this bulb is only found in the south of France. It is present in Spain, Italy and North Africa.Threatmodification of hay meadows restricts this species. Golden garlic tolerates late cutting in summer, but it cannot withstand competition from fertilizer-boosted grass.Cultivate itthis bulb is easily naturalized in the garden, in light soil and in the sun. Eventually, it can form bright colonies .

    Cultivating the Pyrenean aster

    nameAster pyrenaeus .Typeperennial.Distribution and natural habitatthis aster is endemic to the Cantabrian mountains and the Pyrenees. Several sites in the eastern part of its range have disappeared.Threatrare from the 19th century in the Pyrenees, this plant is not very prolific in nature. Global warming, which leads to the thickening of its habitat, limits its prospects.Cultivate itfairly easy to keep in cultivation, this perennial plant only needs fresh soil in the sun, for example in a massif made up of perennials of average size: about 50 cm in height. The Pyrenean aster deserves its place in the flower beds, but a rock garden suits it. Nurserymen sometimes offer the variety ‘Lutetia’, with larger flowers.

    Growing water clover

    nameMarsilea quadrifolia .Typeaquatic perennial.Distribution and natural habitatthis plant with acid green foliage is native to the humid zones of the southern regions.Threatwetland drainage and agricultural irrigation have caused it to lose many of its habitats.Cultivate itplace it around a body of water, making sure that it does not invade everything, as it is prolific . It can also be kept in a pot, in a saucer always containing a background of water. It fears the cold below – 12 ° C.

    Cultivate slimy columbine

    name Aquilegia viscosa or columbine of the causses.Type perennial.Distribution and natural habitat this columbine with indigo-colored flowers is endemic to the causses (ie low-altitude plateaus) in the south.Threat the disappearance of the old-fashioned pasture makes it vulnerable.Cultivate it this species is not commercially available, but others, such as Pyrenean columbine ( A. pyrenaica ), are also slender and easy in rockery. A light and cool soil , in partial shade, offers them good conditions to naturalize.

    South-East: greenhouse effect

    Bringing together both the Alpine massif and the Mediterranean coast, this territory is home to one of the richest flora, but also the most fragile with warming.

    Urbanization and global warming are the two evils that hit the flora of the Southeast the hardest. Urban sprawl, with the transformation of wild spaces into residential or activity areas, takes a heavy toll on fragile environments such as scrubland.
    But it is global warming that is proving the most pressing threat. Wasn’t it in Vérargues (34) that the maximum temperature record ever recorded in France was broken?
    Climate change condemns mountain plants to migrate highto find more favorable conditions, but all of them are far from being able to do so. Species originating from the north are regressing because the climate has become too hot for them. The beech grove of Sainte-Baume, near Marseille (13), is condemned, and seeds were taken there to be replanted… in Rouen (76), in order to safeguard the genetics of this sacred forest.
    On the coast, invasive plants crowd out plants that are not very vigorous and subject to a very particular environment. Despite these constraints, the local flora still offers a tremendous diversity and a number of species can undoubtedly be preserved.

    Conservation of species in conservatory gardens

    The modernization of market gardening practices has almost caused the disappearance of many vegetables … But if the local and old selections are sometimes better adapted to our environment , they are sometimes disappointing, because their qualities vary from one terroir to another.
    In the gardens of the South-East, alongside crops for the sun, such as melons, from which we have been able to save a number of strains, there are also vegetables from less “southern” regions. The kohlrabi ‘Blanc de Vienne’ or the turnip ‘De Crévoux’ bring real diversity, because they are better suited to the gardens of the South than the varieties of the north, sometimes tested by dry and too hot seasons.

    A word of advice: call on the elders, who often have these plant treasures in their gardens!

    Growing dwarf birch

    nameBetula nana .Typeshrub.Distribution and natural habitatrelic of the Ice Age, this birch is fond of the very northern regions. In France, it reaches its southern limit. It is present in peatlands, where its small size (it does not exceed 50 cm) makes it suitable for an environment particularly poor in nutrients.Threatglobal warming threatens its populations in the south of the Massif Central.Cultivate itdwarf birch thrives in light, but moist soil. It can be planted at the edge of a pond, in fibrous soil.

    Cultivate Matthioli’s cortuse

    namePrimula matthioli syn. Cortusa matthioli .Typeperennial.Distribution and natural habitatthis primrose is found in the mountains of central Europe, such as the Carpathians. In France, it reaches its western limit.Threatglobal warming and mountain developments make this plant increasingly rare. It is now protected in Rhône-Alpes.Cultivate itlike many alpines, it likes rock gardens , composed of gravel, well watered in summer. It is perfect when grown in a trough, on a bed of pebbles.

    Cultivating the panicaut des Alpes

    nameEryngium alpinum or Alpine blue thistle, queen of the AlpsTypeperennial.Distribution and natural habitatit grows naturally in all the Alps, at medium altitude (1,500 m). It rubs shoulders with other even rarer panicauts, such as the white thorn panicaut ( Eryngium spinalba ).Threatharvesting is the main danger. Only certified collectors can still, under conditions, take some. But the ease of cultivation of the plant removes interest from this sector.Cultivate itit is especially the variety ‘Blue Star’, more colorful, that we find. A fresh soil suits it, in mass as in rockery, and the plant can be reseeded. Leave the flower heads in place until March of the following year.

    Growing the faux cork oak tree

    name Quercus crenata or Lucombe oak.Type tree.Distribution and natural habitat it is confined to the dry forests of southern Europe. Only a thousand remain in Italy and only a few in the Var and the Alpes-Maritimes.Threatin France, the false cork oak tree is considered endangered. It is the subject of an interministerial protection order. Cultivate it if this oak is not marketed, it is easy to cultivate the hairy oak ( Quercus cerris ), a closely related species which could be one of its relatives. Install it in dry , limestone soil , in full sun.

    Growing officinal sage

    nameSalvia officinalis .Typeshrubby perennial.Distribution and natural habitatthis aromatic plant is present throughout southern Europe. It comes in several subspecies, such as those with lavender leaves or French sage, rarer and more localized than the typical form.Threatthe afforestation of previously open spaces and genetic pollution limit the possibilities of maintaining these sage.Cultivate itfor officinal sage as for its subspecies, it is necessary to offer a very sunny spot, even torrid during all summer.