Category: Gardening

Explore tips, guides, and ideas for all things gardening. From growing beautiful flowers and lush indoor plants to maintaining a thriving vegetable garden, discover practical advice for gardeners of every level. Learn techniques, seasonal care, and innovative gardening solutions to make your garden flourish.

  • What to do in July in the garden in a Mediterranean climate?

    What to do in July in the garden in a Mediterranean climate?

    Some regions are subject to particular climatic conditions. Our local correspondents explain the actions, sowing, planting and harvesting to you in the garden in a Mediterranean climate in July.

    Prune the apricot trees green

    The winter operations size performed on apricot promote disease. The size in green is practiced in summer to lighten the antlers. Young twigs developing outward and not bearing fruit are kept. The branches on which the fruits were picked are removed. Remove the suckers that have grown in the center of the tree.

    Water in July, August will do the rest

    Warning: fruit trees planted in the fall of last year, or this last spring, have not yet developed a deep root system! Long roots would allow them to find areas from which to draw sufficient water.
    The month of July is crucial for the growth of young fruit trees. A lack of water would be detrimental. To be effective, watering must be done in a large basin (1 m in diameter and 10 cm deep). This reserve of 100 l constitutes a large quantity of water which, thanks to its weight, descends in depth. This operation can be repeated 15 days later.
    Then, with the period of “hardening” (lignification), it is not necessary to water. The trees can wait for the fall rains.

    No drought in the garden

    In summer, on hot days, the atmosphere is very dry. However, many plants introduced into southern gardens come from more humid climates and suffer from this very low degree of humidity.
    Preserve the plants from the resulting discomfort by drenching their leaves in the evening. When the sun goes down and it is less hot, spray the foliage with a low-flow water stream. Ideally, the water used should be between 15 and 20 ° C and have a neutral pH.

    Fight against red spiders

    Hot, dry summer air promotes the proliferation of red spider mites, especially on oleander. These sap-sucking biters weave a web on the inner face of the leaves, causing depigmentation of their outer face. They hate humidity: wet the underside of the foliage every evening and during the day to eliminate these spiders.

    Cut the irises

    The flowering of the irises is over, and the next one is growing inside the rhizomes. Seeds form on their flower stems, which risk using up part of the plant’s reserves to the detriment of the next flowers. It is better to cut these stems at the base. The plant does not require watering: too much water is harmful because the rhizomes remain half buried.

    Sternbergia lutea, this false crocus that lights up the garden

    With its yellow flowers similar to those of large crocuses, Sternbergia lutea is a popular fall bulb to liven up the garden. The inverted vegetation of this large bulb makes it necessary to plan the plantings at the end of summer during the state of dormancy. Very hardy, Sternbergia lutea can be planted in many situations where it naturalizes.
    Do not hesitate to plant Sternbergia lutea in a mixture with other perennials, even suckers such as Lady-Larpent’s plumbago. This false crocus then mixes the bright yellow of its flowers with the blue of this perennial.
    During the winter, the foliage takes over from the blooms until spring when it disappears. 
    From year to year, the bulbs reproduce and expand, it is then necessary to consider a doubling. Pop the bulb clump every five years.

    Cut the melons

    To induce flower development, pinch the melons . Between your thumb and forefinger, cut the stems above the 2nd leaf, to promote growth. New shoots carrying melons will be pinched 2 leaves above the fruit. This pruning stops the development of the terminal bud for the benefit of the productive branches. Sun and heat do the rest.

    Fresh mulched vegetables

    In the vegetable garden, the earth quickly dehydrates under the effect of the blazing sun and the wind. Repeated watering compacts the soil and prevents it from breathing, so it is necessary to decompact it. Covering the surface with plant matter limits the evaporation of water from the soil and thus reduces watering .
    To achieve the mulch, use straw, but also all the green waste collected in the garden. Beforehand, a drying period is essential, in order to avoid fermentation at the foot of the plants.
    The effectiveness of mulching depends on its thickness, which should be 5 to 10 cm. All vegetables appreciate this comfort at their feet, with the exception of root vegetablesbecause mulching favors the presence of the Provence vole , which is fond of it.

    The gatillier, pioneer of the harsh lands

    Commonly called gatillier, Vitex agnus-castus, of Mediterranean origin, deserves a place in gardens with poor and dry soil.
    In summer, this shrub is adorned with flowers of a purplish blue. In the form of panicles, they bloom at the ends of the shoots of the year. Its foliage gives off a strong peppery odor.
    In the fall, it produces black seeds used as pepper, hence its other common name of pepper plant.


    The shrub is easily integrated into the bottom of a massif or in a hedge .
    As early as the summer, determine the locations of the plantings scheduled for the end of September.
    Cover a square meter of planting space with cardboard to smother weeds .
    When planting, opt for young seedlings from nurseries, which settle better in dry and poor soils.

    When to harvest eggplant

    Like tomatoes or potatoes, eggplants belong to the Solanaceae family. Their fruits have different shapes and colors depending on the variety.
    For taste reasons, the harvest takes place before the fruits are fully ripe. An overripe eggplant will have a spongy flesh and many very hard seeds, unpleasant in the mouth.
    But harvested too young, eggplants contain a lot of solanine, a toxic substance. In addition, their flavor is not at the rendezvous.
    Picking is favorable when the color of the skin is uniform and the fruit is easily detached. It’s up to you to judge the right moment knowing that the experience remains the best of advisers.

  • Goosefoot Bon-Henri: how to grow successfully

    Goosefoot Bon-Henri: how to grow successfully

    The bon-Henri goosefoot (also called “bon-Henri anserine”) is found in the wild almost everywhere in France in rich and shady lands.
    Perennial, very resistant to cold, it can stay in place 4 to 5 years in a row. Its leaves, rich in calcium, iron and phosphorus, are eaten raw in salads or cooked like spinach.

    The culture sheet

    Sowing: March to April or October
    Harvest: April to October
    Duration of emergence: 5 to 6 months (autumn sowing), 10 to 15 days (spring sowing)
    Culture period: 4 to 5 years
    Watering: regular
    Production: 15 to 20 leaves per plant

    Sowing bon-Henri goosefoot

    Preferably in autumn or in spring, trace shallow furrows spaced 40 to 50 cm apart along the edge of the vegetable garden, in a part where the lamb’s quarters can
    stay in place for several years.
    Distribute the seeds as evenly as possible.
    Cover and tamp with the back of the rake.
    Water in fine rain.

    When the plants have 4 to 5 leaves, 1 month (for spring sowing) to 6 or 7 months (for fall sowing) later, eliminate the weakest plants
    in each row, keeping one lamb’s quarters every 35 at 40 cm.

    Caring for the bon-Henri goosefoot

    Goosefoot is sensitive to drought which encourages early flowering to the detriment of leaf production.
    From May, spread a good layer of flax sequins at the base to keep the soil moist. Water abundantly at the foot all summer.
    At the end of June to mid-July, cut off any flower stems that form to stimulate leaf production.

    Harvest bon-Henri goosefoot

    Harvesting occurs in the summer following the fall sowing or the following year for spring sowing or division.
    Break the petiole of the lower leaves by hand by pulling downwards.
    Harvest as and when needed for immediate consumption.

    Produce your seeds

    Propagation by division, which is much easier, is greatly preferred to harvesting seeds. The number of plants obtained is largely sufficient for the average consumption of a family. Operate at the very beginning of spring, in March.

    Select well bushy chenopods.
    Cut out the circumference of the root ball with a spade, planting it vertically between 10 and 15 cm from the foot, all around the plant.
    Pry up to lift, then extract the goosefoot by pulling at the base of the leaves.
    With a sturdy knife, cut into 2 or 3 pieces with leaves and roots.
    Immediately plant the pieces, in another place in the vegetable garden, spacing them 40 cm apart on the row.

    Wait 4 to 5 years before sowing or re-planting goosefoot where you grew it previously.

  • Palm Sunday and the weather: sayings

    Palm Sunday and the weather: sayings

    The wind that blows at the time of Palm Sunday would be the one that should persist throughout the beautiful season. The time of this festival would also be that of the year. To check it, remember to note the weather this weekend.

    In 2017, Palm Sunday is April 9 (in 2016, it was March 20, the official spring day). This date changes from year to year, like Easter: “Easter is the Sunday following the fourteenth day of the Moon which reaches this age on or immediately after March 21”. The fourteenth day of the Moon being the day of the full Moon. The sayings giving weather forecasts relate to the day or the weekend of Palm Sunday and do not indicate a precise date.

    “The wind which is blessed on the Palm lasts the least during the year.”
    From one saying or from one proverb to another, the moment to note the direction of the wind of Palm Sunday is not always the same. Some indicate instead the time of the blessing during Palm Mass. Others remain more vague and only mention the wind blowing during the day, but since the wind sometimes changes direction during Palm Sunday, this latter forecast would be less reliable.

    “If the wind is north on Palm Sunday, it won’t be hot all season long.”
    An easterly wind would also be the sign of a predicted relative freshness. And in both cases, dry weather … a more southerly wind would herald a warmer year. With a westerly direction, we should expect a rather wet year.

    “If it rains on Palm Sunday, a year of rain.”
    Palm Sunday is Sunday. But another saying refers to Saturday: “Palm Saturday is done all year round.”

    If you’re passionate about weather forecasting, have fun recording the weather and wind direction on Saturday and Sunday. And over the months, you will be able to determine whether or not the sayings have given the right indications.

  • Water the bulbous fennel

    Water the bulbous fennel

    Watering the fennel depends on the size of the petioles which form the fleshy apple which is eaten.

    Bulbous fennel water requirement

    The water requirements of fennel are average, even if they become a little more important in the summer.

    Signs that bulbous fennel is lacking in water

    The lack of water causes the seed to rise prematurely and blocks the formation of the apple.

    Water quality for watering bulbous fennel

    The rainwater and tap water are suitable.

    Materials needed for watering bulbous fennel

    An apple watering can for watering in fine rain is quite suitable.

    Frequency of watering bulbous fennel

    Make waterings followed after sowing and transplanting between March and May. During the growth of the plant, which lasts from April to September, watering will be more punctual, carried out during each episode of drought.
    In summer, water copiously to avoid the rise in seeds which will be to the detriment of the consumed part, the petioles.

  • 5 secrets to having a beautiful pendant light

    5 secrets to having a beautiful pendant light

    Watering, care, or smart marriages. What are the secrets to successful flower hanging?

    Wedding

    The choice of species or varieties of plants associated with the same container is essential.
    They must have the same cultivation needs (exposure, water requirements), but also harmonious developments, one must not encroach on the other and end up dominating it to the point of preventing it from growing and flowering.

    Grooming

    At least once a week, cut off faded flowers, remove any fruit-laden seeds that have formed, and remove diseased or damaged leaves.
    Also, prune the green shoots on the variegated varieties.

    Watering

    Prevent thirsts that tire the plants. Follow the weather and monitor the substrate to water as soon as the soil is dry on the surface. Do not wet flowers and foliage, especially those sensitive to powdery mildew and rot.
    Sprinkle 2 hours after sunset with water at room temperature.

    Spreading

    The soil in the pots is quickly depleted and repeated watering leaches out nutrients. But the plants have developed a lot and draw more from the soil.
    Support blooms with liquid organic fertilizers rich in phosphorus (P) and potassium (K), always spread on a well-moistened root ball and respecting the doses indicated on the packaging.

    Retraction

    Summer is conducive to thunderstorms and devastating strong gales.
    These can sometimes break the hanging stems or unhook the suspension that it is better to shelter the time that the grain passes.

  • Why do green manures turn white? Explanations

    Why do green manures turn white? Explanations

    Sown in the summer, green manures suffer in winter, but for a good cause, the onslaught of frost. More than a ground cover, some help in the work with their powerful roots.

    Frost on green manures

    Similar, at best to the state of a cooked salad or at worst of a frozen bean, the green manures of the moment are very useful.
    Installed in summer and fall, they will be ready to be buried as soon as the thaw occurs. The plots enriched and structured thanks to the powerful roots of certain fertilizers, can receive after this work, the spring crops.

    Prune green manure

    • You have to chop the fertilizers. Opposite in the photo, in a greenhouse, the green manures which improve the soil are pruned at the end of winter.
    • After a harsh winter, they will be soft, it’s easy, they will decompose.

    Phacelia

    •  In summer and when they are in full vegetation, they can be mowed or pulled up and left as mulch on the ground.
    • In March, spotlight on the phacelia , a beautiful honey flower . If it occupies the land for more than two months, it is always possible to pull part of it to cultivate its vegetables in May. Leave the rest in place.

    Sow green manures as soon as a square empties

    Alfalfa should be sown sparingly as it is very difficult to remove. It should be installed in plots left to rest for at least three years and mown to feed rabbits for example.

    The smartest will have benefited from the benefits of winter spinach at a rate of 50 g / 10 m2, it enriches the soil with nitrogen. Start between two crops, and let the earthworms bury the cut leaves. It will always be possible to take some leaves for personal consumption.

    For late gardeners, settled in October, rye has a fasciculate root system(without main root), but with multiple rootlets which improve the structure of the soil. In addition, its intense vegetation suffocates weeds. Associated with the vetch (150 g / 10 m2), with the rapid growth, it cleans the ground of the weeds. Vetch is, moreover, a Fabaceae which fixes nitrogen from the air in the soil and which thrives in clay soil.

    In season, you can play with mixtures of crimson clover, mustard, buckwheat, wheat. 
    If the ideal is to cut these fertilizers just before flowering, but it is so pretty that sometimes you can let

  • Small bouquet for summer pots

    Small bouquet for summer pots

    In the fall, it’s time to reinvigorate declining pots by cleaning and replacing perennials with seasonal ones.

    Mid-October, it’s time to transform your planters and pots so that they are decorative in late autumn and all winter.

    • First, pull up the annual plants. Traditional perennials will go dormant, while others will retain their foliage, such as heuches . As for the grasses, they are tinged with gold or purple and remain decorative in the bad season, sparkling under the frost.
    • Cut back the following spring to see the new leaves appear.
    • Clean the plants to be preserved, by removing the damaged leaves, and surfacing with a substrate composed of potting soil and compost, on a few centimeters.
    • Pack.
    • Replace annuals with primroses , pansies or violas that will bloom all winter amid grasses and other perennial plants.
    • If there is room, add one or two ivy with small leaves, to fall back to the front, a hellebore , a heather or an evergreen fern.
    • Plant a few small bulbs (snowdrops, grape hyacinths, crocuses, etc.) to obtain a charming flowering from February.
    • Pack well with your fingers, fill with compost if necessary. Water.

    In winter, add water when it is not freezing and the soil is dry on the surface.

  • Limit the area devoted to grass

    Limit the area devoted to grass

    The lawn is fragile and consumes water, fertilizers, and treatment products. Partly replace it with other less demanding plants or turn it into a meadow.

     It’s a great classic! More than 84% of French gardens have at least one small lawn, which still represents an estimated area of ​​almost 640,000 ha! It symbolizes nature for many. But the lawn is one of the most water-intensive areas; it often requires inputs of nitrogenous fertilizers and pesticides and encourages the use of a motorized machine emitting CO2 … the mower.

    The gardener must rather take care to reduce this lawned space, reserved for places of games and idleness. Elsewhere, it will replace it with ground cover plants ( ivy, periwinkle, and helxine in the shade; dwarf sedum, perennial geranium, and dwarf bamboo in the sun), which do not require any maintenance. In the most remote parts of his house, he can even change the grass into a meadow by mowing the grass only once a year, at the end of summer.

  • How to grow fern according to the variety

    How to grow fern according to the variety

    Fans of shade, ferns seduce with their refreshing greenery, especially in summer. They gracefully populate deprived corners without requiring special care. Some so-called “arborescent” are mistaken for shrubs and exhibit an exotic-looking trunk or stipe. Others will do well in pots or containers.

    Cultivation conditions

    Ferns are plants without flowers whose reproduction is very particular (see “seedlings”). Their leaves, deciduous or persistent, are called fronds, their seeds spores. Most of them offer the spectacle of their young slingshots unfolding in a stick. They have in common to appreciate the shade and the freshness. They are of great use to dress the foot of trees or shrubs, undergrowth or gardens embedded between buildings.

    How to sow ferns

    The reproduction of these primary plants is very particular. Indeed, the seeds are distributed on the obverse of the fronds or on specific fronds, arranged in the center of the tufts. Brown to golden, they require high humidity and hygrometry to germinate.
    Sprinkle on the surface of a terrine, on a bed of river sand. Do not pack or cover. Put a glass on the whole. Then a prothallus is formed, a sort of undifferentiated green mass. Only after some time do real seedlings appear on its surface. Individualize them by transplanting them separately.closevolume_off

    When and how to plant ferns

    In the South or in very drained soil, prefer an autumn planting. Preferably operate in spring elsewhere. If necessary, incorporate a lot of potting soil or compost to enrich the soil and improve its texture and structure.

    How to water ferns

    Water copiously until complete recovery, then periodically in the event of summer drought or very draining soil.

    How to fertilize ferns

    Add compost and / or half a handful of organic lawn fertilizer per plant in the fall .

    How to successfully maintain ferns

    Weed the surrounding area and spread an organic mulch in the fall, on soft, cool soil. Renew it every year.

    Diseases and pests

    No.

    How to prune ferns

    Remove dry deciduous fronds in winter, evergreen leaves from last year at the end of winter.

    How to multiply ferns

    Divide the stumps. Collect bulbils for some proliferating varieties.

    The classic varieties of ferns

    • Asplenium scolopendrium Phyllitis scolopendrium or “stag’s tongue fern” is satisfied with little. Entire fronds leathery, rather erect, persistent, pointed, of a solid green. ‘Undulatum’, with wavy edges, ‘Crispum’, with crisp edges, ‘Furcatum’, with split ends. From 30 to 50 cm.
    • Athyrium filix-femina or “female fern” is common in the woods and has given rise to many attractive forms for light shade location. The fronds, very green and divided twice, have the appearance of feathers and are deciduous, withering in early autumn. It grows in ordinary soil, rather humus, on slopes or near bodies of water; in ‘Frizelliae’ the fronds are composed of short rounded and curly pinnae, aligned on either side of the frail main vein, 35 cm; ‘Victoriae’ is original with its fronds with leaflets that intersect in pairs, 80 cm. 
    • Athyrium nipponicum is prized for its painted double-divided leaves. ‘Pictum’ is the most common, variegated with silvery gray and veined with purple brown, 45 cm; ‘Ghost’ , more uniform gray in color, 60 cm; on ‘Ursula’s Red’ the center of the silver fronds is marked with burgundy; ‘Ocean’s Flurry’ combines silvery foliage and curly fronds.
    • Blechnum spicant has tough, evergreen foliage. The tufts are compact with sterile, dark green, glossy, rather flattened fronds. The new fertile summer fronds are erect. Nice effect all year round. For rather acidic soil, 45 cm. 
    • Dryopteris affinis ‘Cristata’ or ‘The King’   exhibits semi-evergreen fronds, doubly divided and curled at the tip. The spring stocks are golden, 1.20 m. ‘Pinderi’ with a divergent habit and narrow fronds, with golden reflections, 1.10 m.
    • Dryopteris dilatata ‘Crispa Whiteside’, deciduous fronds, light green then dark green, curly like parsley. Superb in a pot, 50 cm; ‘Lepidota Crispa Cristata’ is a dwarf version with delicately divided fronds and twitched in a single plane. Any soil, for rock garden or pot, 40 cm. 
    • Dryopteris erythrosora is splendid with its young orange or salmon colored fronds. Evergreen foliage, sheltered location and very humus soil, 70 cm.
    • Dryopteris filix-mas or male fern is native and very accommodating, it tolerates dryness, limestone, clay and even the sun in wet soil. Large elegant green-yellow fronds. ‘Cristata’ offers fronds ending in a ruffled crest, 50 cm; ‘Linearis Polydactylon’, with the fronds, aerial, almost devoid of blade and the tips of the pinnae are curly. Grayish appearance, 90 cm. 
    • Dryopteris wallichiana is distinguished by a short, black trunk. The young fronds, in spring, are enhanced by a rachis furnished with very dark scales. Vigorous, semi-persistent, spectacular plant, with an erect habit, 1 m.
    • Polystichum aculeatum . Rustic and vigorous native fern with leathery fronds, yellowish in spring then dark green, shiny and persistent, arranged in a cone, 80 cm. 
    • Polystichum braunii . Species with leathery, hairy, deciduous fronds, erect and sometimes exposing buds at the end of the fronds. Silver gray reflections at the lacrosse stage in spring then to the rough feel in season, 60 cm.
    • Polystichum polyblepharum . Supple, elegant habit with its broad, brilliant green fronds, with tight leaflets, 60 cm in all directions: superb ground-covering effect. Supports clay soil, but not soggy. 
    • Polystichum setiferum. Accommodating and of great beauty. It grows in a compact tuft. Its persistent fronds deploy in spring butts garnished with golden scales. The fronds are broad and very indented, yellowish-green. For shade and freshness, but good drought tolerance. Great longevity of the tufts. ‘Herrenhausen’, with long, erect fronds, 90 cm; ‘Plumosum Densum’, fronds several times cut and entangled, for a muslin effect; ‘Proliferum’ exhibits fronds carrying proliferation (small fronds in formation), 1 m.

    Ferns enduring heat and drought

    • Asplenium trichomanes . The “false capillary” is a reviviscent plant. It is able to dry out during the summer and then turn green again as soon as the rains in the fall. This small persistent fern is a follower of walls and cracks in our countryside and cities. Compact tufts of fronds divided into round pinnae, petioles black, 20 cm.
    • Ceterach officinarum , another native, shows the same ability to regrow. Even more compact, its fronds are tight, divided and more leathery, with beige reverse, 10 cm. 
    • Cheilanthes lanosa is very suitable for sun and drought. Its narrow foliage is hairy and silvery to bluish, with a woolly appearance. In earth, even limestone, but humus, 25 cm in all directions.
    • Polypodium vulgare or “liquorice of the woods” is able to survive hanging on the fork of trees in oceanic climate or between rocks. Rather calcareous soils. Rhizomatous strain, spreading out as a perfect ground cover. Late bud break in spring. Persistent fronds cut into deep lobes, leathery, dark green, 30 cm. ‘Cambricum’ and ‘Cornubiense’ with deeply divided leaflets. 

    Exotic-looking ferns

    • Adiantum pedatum or capillary. Thin and elegant leaves, like palmate and plurifoliolate arranged on a plane, horizontally, like “bird’s foot”. Stems slender, black, robust, 25 cm.
    • Adiantum capilus-veneris or “hair of Venus” shows a more compact form, the fronds spreading out one above the other for a green waterfall effect. They are elongated and not palmate, with irregular leaflets, 25 cm. Less hardy than the previous species. The adiantum scarcely tolerate windy situations and appreciate good atmospheric hygrometry. Install them near a waterfall, for example, or even in a shaded wall or the wall of a cavity.
    • Cyrtomium falcatum has attractive evergreen foliage, green and glossy, spreading and sparsely divided. Scythe-shaped leaflets. Quite rustic, it will find its place in pots or in the garden, in cool dry soil. Protect the stump with a mattress of dead leaves, 60 cm. 
    • Cyrtomium fortunei is similar to the previous one with less thick, leathery and rather dull, light green and wavy foliage. On the other hand, it is more vigorous, 70 cm .
    • C. f. clivicola , flexible port, ideal for filling an embankment.
    • Dicksonia antarctica is the species most commonly used as a “tree fern”. It produces a spongy trunk (stipe) at the top of which develops a crown of large and broad evergreen leaves, very indented, green and shiny, sometimes 2.50 m long. Install in a container or on a patio, in a place protected from cold winds and late frosts. During the growth, high humidity recommended thanks to frequent bathing or misting. If necessary, installdrip irrigationin the crown. Withstands down to – 7 ° C. If necessary, protect by tying the crown and wrapping everything in a protective veil. Up to 3.50 m. NOT’ 
    • Dryopteris cycadina . Its fronds are persistent, tall and light, evoking the leaves of the cycad. Easy to grow in cool, rather acidic soil. Protect the stump in winter, 70 cm.
    • Lygodium japonicum is a rare climbing fern. Protected by a thick mattress of dead leaves, its stock is hardy in the Paris region. Slow growth, 2 m. 
    • Woodwardia unigemmata surprises with its vigor, robustness and the size of its fronds. It is however rustic in the Paris region, with a well protected place and a protective mulch against the stump and roots. Young reddish fronds and spreading by underground suckers. Spectacular effect, 80 cm, hardiness – 8 ° C.

    Ferns adapted to humid soils

    • Matteucia struthiopteris or “ostrich feather fern”. Early to grow in spring, its fronds are assembled in a narrow, light green cone. Grows in compact colonies in neutral soil, rich in humus and always moist. Avoid drying winds. Up to 1.50 m.
    • Onoclea Sensitis is a perennial with roots with creeping rhizomes that forms dense colonies. The fronds are short, split twice, renewing in summer, light green assuming splendid coppery colors in autumn. Ideal for bank retention, supports temporary or continuous immersion of less than 10 cm. Humus soil, rather acidic, 70 cm. 
    • Osmunda regalis , “royal osmonde”, is a protected plant in our country. It is the most imposing rustic fern in our region. Sterile fronds erect, broad and divided. Fertile fronds in summer, less spectacular. It can form “turrets” and thus rise above the water level. Beautiful spring crosses and fall colors. Spores borne at the tips of fertile fronds. Slow growth, up to 2.50 m. ‘Purpurascens’, with young shoots and bronze petioles.

    Indoor ferns to grow in pots

    There are varieties of ferns that are grown in pots like houseplants. To learn more about caring for indoor ferns, repotting and growing them:

    • Indoor ferns
    • The crocodile fern
    • Nephrolepsis
    • Caring for the Boston fern
    • 30 indoor plants with depolluting properties

    Where to plant a tree fern and which soil to use?

    A semi-shaded situation will be perfect. Choose a place protected from the winds by walls or hedges because the very long fronds break easily. The quality of the soil is of little importance because the tree fern has few underground roots .

  • Gardening with the moon: fruit and seed days

    Gardening with the moon: fruit and seed days

    Record, in the lunar calendar, the dates of the passages of the star in front of one of the three constellations in accordance with the element of fire. These are the ideal times to devote yourself to gardening work on plants grown for their fruits or seeds.

    During its journey around the earth, the moon scrolls past the twelve regions of the zodiac, each of which is in affinity with one of the four fundamental elements: earth, water, air, and fire.
    When the lunar star arrives in front of the constellation of Aries, Leo or Sagittarius, (each being in affinity with the element of fire), it sends back impulses and forces that act on the plants and stimulate their setting to fruit or to seeds.

    When the moon is rising (or ascending) and it passes in front of the constellations of Sagittarius or Aries, it is time to sow or reap the plants grown for their fruits or seeds. These periods are also favorable for taking grafts from fruit trees and for carrying out grafts.
    When the moon is descending and it arrives in front of the constellation Leo or Sagittarius, you can prepare and enrich the soil where the fruit or seed plants will be grown. It is also the right time to thin out the seedlings, but also to transplant, plant or prune this type of plant.

    The plants concerned

    These are in priority all fruit trees and shrubs (apricot, actinidia, citrus, almond, cherry, quince, fig, common and Japanese medlar, hazel, walnut, olive, peach, pear, apple, plum, vine) and small fruits (blackcurrant, raspberry, red currant and gooseberry, blueberry, bramble, and strawberry).

    In the kitchen gardenthe plants cultivated for their fruits are strawberries, tomatoes, peppers and peppers, eggplants, pickles, cucumbers, melons, watermelons, not to mention the many species and varieties of squash.
    Other plants are valued for their seeds, eaten fresh or well dried. This is the case of beans, beans, lentils, peas, and chickpeas.
    To this must be added cereals (wheat, barley, oats, corn, rice, and rye) as well as certain condiment plants such as green anise, dill, caraway, cumin, coriander, fennel, fenugreek, nigella.

    In the ornamental garden, it is all the decorative fruit shrubs such as cotoneaster, ornamental apple trees, pyracanthas, etc. The curious parakeet grass, the poppies to be dried and the papal money are also concerned plants.

    Indoor plants Ardisia, ornamental pepper, love apple treeclosevolume_off

    What are fruit plants or seeds?

    these are all fruit trees:

    • apricot, cherry, citrus … berries: currant, blueberry, strawberry …
    • Climbers: actinidia, blackberry bramble and vines …
    • Vegetables whose fruit or seeds are eaten: tomato, zucchini, eggplant, melon, peas, lentils, beans …
    • The aromatic plants whose seeds are eaten: coriander, fennel …
    • And finally the cereals that are classified in this category: oats, wheat, rye, barley …

    What is a seeds and fruit day?

    A fruit or seed day is a day during which the gardener takes care of the fruit trees, berries, fruit vegetables and plants from which the seeds are eaten and the seeds collected. While rotating around the terrestrial globe, the Moon describes an elliptical orbit of which the Earth is one of the focal points. During a lunation, it passes in front of the twelve regions of the zodiac, each being in affinity with one of the four fundamental elements: Earth, Water, Air and Fire.

    When the Moon passes in front of the constellations of Aries and Sagittarius on the ascending moon, and Leo on the descending moon (these are constellations in affinity with the element Fire), it influences fruits, berries, vegetables- fruits and seeds, which determines the days-fruits and seeds.

    These constellations provide the heat necessary for the ripening of the fruits: harvest them in fruit-days, when they are full of sun, they keep better. Collect the seeds of vegetables and flowers when they are ripe, on a fruit day, when the weather is dry: their germination power will be prolonged.

    Sow, plant, pluck, reap! Perform the planting of fruit trees in the descending moon and the sowing of fruit vegetables in the ascending moon. Process, prune and care for fruit trees, shrubs, and fruiting veg in fruit day, you will get healthier, sweeter fruit with increased flavor.